DALASAMANTIA

DALASAMANTIA

Thursday, December 01, 2011

FLOGGING


To the beginner flogging may look simple, and actually it's not that complicated, but it does require attention and physical effort along with some practice. However, understanding of some basic guidelines can develop the experience for both the slave and master.  A beginner would do well to practice on a pillow, focusing on the intended striking point.
1. Before any flogging, the parties involved should make an agreement on the limits and what "safe-word" to use to slowdown or stop the flogging. Does the slave like light medium or hard sensations? How open is they to new experiences? Have they had much if any experience with flogging before? Trainees may think they can take lots of pain, and then be surprised at what a flogging actually feels like.
v Medical or physical limitations should be made known of before, starting a session
2. The basic area to flog is the upper back on each side of the spine or the backside. Stay off the spine to avoid damage to the vertebrae and related sensitive areas.  Instead of using a full swinging motion stop the flogger immediately after it hits or even pull it backwards in a snapping motion right before it hits. By varying this motion you can control how much of the tails connect with the back; more will cause greater thud while hitting with just the tips will be stingier.
3.  Avoid wrapping the tips of the tails wrap around a curved part of the body such as the shoulders, torso, butt or legs. In wrapping the tips accelerate tremendously and the resulting excessive force at the tips almost always causes an undesirable increase in pain.  A person has to estimate where the tails are going to hit.  In addition, when flinging a flogger people often have a tendency to move towards the target, which will cause wrapping if it's not compensated for. On rare occasions a bottom may desire wrapping, but then this should be done by mutual agreement and care.
4.  The butt is very inviting, but because of its smaller size and roundness it requires greater accuracy to avoid excessive wrapping onto the hips or into the especially sensitive "inner" areas; avoid hitting the tailbone.  The thighs can be flogged but should be done with extra attention to wrapping. Female breasts should be flogged lightly to avoid medical problems that could occur from bruising, and this may be more important if they are flogged often; males can usually safely take more in this area. Generally other parts of the body, especially the kidney area, should never be flogged except with very light, miniature floggers.  Stay away from all joints of the legs and arms, and the head and neck should never be flogged.
5. Start with softer strokes and work up gradually to the agreed point.  This way the slave will be able to take more as well as get more out of the lesson.  If you have an assortment of floggers, start with the lighter ones before going to the heavier selection.  Always varying the pace and alternating lighter slow strokes with harder and faster ones, using just the tips building to full strokes, this can make the difference between a good session and a great one.
During the lesson the master always needs to be sensitive to the degree of how the slave is handling the experience and when to vary the strokes.  During the lesson, the experienced master can learn valuable information by observing the slave’s reactions to what is happening.
6. The master should understand that the heavier/thicker tails will cause a thud, while harder/thinner strip tails will cause more sting, braided leather tails usually cause the most sting. These differences are best understood by experiencing them on yourself. A flogger also needs to be swung fast enough so the tails don't separate and land inaccurately.
7. Occasionally during a flogging a small amount of blood may appear on the skin as a result of a blemish being broken open. How blood and other body fluids on a flogger should be dealt with is controversial; disinfectants and leather conditioners can alter the leather.  It is important if you have more than one slave to have different floggers for each slave.  If any blood or body secretions have gotten on the tails, they should be wiped with a dry cloth. Then before using the flogger again it should be hung to air-dry for two weeks--the drying action will kill any viruses.  Some would suggest cleaning the tails with a cloth moistened with a fresh solution of bleach mixed 1 part to 10 parts water. A few may suggest both the bleach solution and then drying for two weeks, but this may be more than is needed. On the other hand, we are talking about AIDS and hepatitis.  The best approach is to avoid getting blood and other body fluids on your floggers. However, the flogging action will tend to wipe blood away and make a tiny skin break difficult to see. Therefore checking a slave’s skin after a flogging for signs that any blood may have gotten on the flogger would be wise.  If someone trusts you enough to let you flog them, you owe it to them to be careful.  Flogging is ultimately supposed to be gratifying to both parties.

GAGS





SIMPLE GAG....
If the slave is wearing no makeup or is wearing lipstick but no base, use medical cloth tape, since it'll be going directly on unprotected skin. You will find cloth tape at pharmacies in the bandage and band-aid section. It is a bit see-through so you may want to put on two strips unless you do like to see the lips through the tape a little.....
VARIATION....
If the slave is wearing makeup and is wearing base, use colored-brand duct tape. Not the silver duct tape that comes on big commercial rolls, but the small rolls of white, red, tan, etc., that are stocked stores for housewives. These smaller color rolls are made with thinner cement and are less likely to pull off layers of skin the way silver maintenance/construction duct tape does.....
RING OR BALL GAGS....
When choosing a ring or ball gag keep in mind the person you intend to use it on. Unless they have a large mouth chose a ball or ring gag that is 1-3/4-inch in diameter or smaller to start with. Although it is interesting to play with larger ones it must be comfortable. Truthfully, most gags are cosmetic. Ball gags can be spoken around, and most gags can be worked off simply by dropping the chin down and wiggling the head. If you force the chin, all the way down first and then tie the head-strap, it will stay in place better and be more secure, but it will look stupid and unsexy. Therefore, the first thing about gags is, they are more about fantasy than reality.....
CLOTH GAGS....
Drop the mouth open to its most open position. Hold the tongue upward in the mouth. Insert hard cloth packing into the mouth, as much as you can fit, plus leaving some spilling out the front of the mouth. (Your tongue is up as a block to protect the entrance to the throat.) Then tie a strip of cloth either across the mouth and around the back of the head or for a more secure setting under the chin, tying it on top of the head pushing the jaw closed.....

CROTCH ROPES



Nylon braided rope is best for crotch ropes. If you use cotton rope, apply it over nylon or silk panties otherwise the rope will abrade the skin and then your slave will get sore and you won't be able to have sex with them for several days. Putting knots in the crotch rope will not help unless the knots are perfectly placed, so you have to ask your slave how it feels when you're placing each knot.....
To make a crotch rope, you will need three 12-foot-long pieces of 5/16-inch rope. ....
  1. Take the three ropes, find the middle of each, and hang them over your finger, with the midpoint of each rope over your finger.....
  2. Grab the six ends, about seven inches from your finger, so you have a fist with three loops sticking out. ....
  3. Run the ends so that they cross over the ropes, forming a loop.....
  4. Reach through the loop and pull then ends through it. ....
  5. Take a moment to groom the knot so that the ropes lie smoothly.....
  6. Hold the knot in your right hand, with the loops pointing down, and arrange the six ends so that they are draped over your fist and evenly spaced.....
  7. Stick out your index finger, and make sure that one strand is draped over it. Take this strand and, going counter-clockwise; lay it over the next strand. Take that strand, and again going counter clockwise, lay it over the next strand.....
  8. Keep doing this till you have done all six strands. The last end goes through the loop around your index finger (from the first strand you worked with). The strand goes in the direction opposite to the way your index finger is pointing.....
  9. Going counter-clockwise around the circle, gently pull on each strand, removing some slack. Don't try to remove it all at once, or you will pull the knot out of shape. Instead, go around the circle several times, taking out a little more slack each time. When you are done, you should have a symmetrical six-sided figure.....
Repeat the above procedure to make a second layer.....
  1. Make a third layer. When you draw this one up tight, it will be snug forming a larger six-sided figure than before. Be sure to hold in place as you tighten them.....
  2. Tighten up the layers more and more, until they are the same diameter as the first layer.....
  3. Tighten up the braid a bit more using something like the end of a ballpoint pen (retracted, please), or a marlinspike, if you're really into knots, and starting at the bottom of the braid, pull out a loop of slack. Follow it up the braid, pulling out more and more slack, till you get to the top of the braided section. Pull on the appropriate end to remove the slack, and tighten up the top of the braid again. Do this for all six strands. Here is a tip for following the braid. As it goes from layer to layer, each rope forms a pattern like the letter "N", with the crossbar going under two other ropes. ....
  4. Hold the braided section in your hand, so that you have two strands going to your left, two going to your right, and two hanging straight down.....
  5. Take the left and right strands closest to the center, and cross the left one over the right one.....
  6. Now take the left and right strands farthest from the center, and cross the left one over the right one, on top of the two you have just crossed.....
  7. Of the two ropes still hanging down take the right-hand one, bring it up and cross it over to the left. Take the remaining rope, bring it up and cross it over to the right. Pull the braids tight.....
  8. Take the outside rope on the right, and cross it over the others.Now take the outside rope on the left, and cross it over the others. Keep repeating this pattern. You will go from having three ropes on each side, to having four on one side and two on the other, then back to three on each side. Be sure to keep the braid tight; pull it snug after each left/right sequence. This forms a nice herringbone braid. (If you make one or two of the ropes a different color, you can get an interesting chevron pattern, too.)....
  9. Braid until you are close to the end of the rope, then tie an overhand knot in it to keep it from unbraiding itself. I like to tie a separate overhand knot in the three ropes on each side. It is less bulky, and it keeps braid from being jumbled at the end.....
  10. To use the crotch rope, you can tie a waist rope around your partner, running the waist rope through the loops on the crotch rope, or you can tie the loop to the waist rope with a short length of rope. Run the rope between the legs, and over the waist rope in back. If your slave is standing, you can unbraid the crotch rope to where it meets the waist rope, and tie a knot there. If she is lying on her back, it is better to run the end of the crotch rope over the waist rope, and back down between the legs. This causes less of an uncomfortable bump for her to lie on.....
Even so, you may have to put a pillow under her buttocks so she is not lying on the bump. With your partner lying on her back, you do not even need to tie the end of the crotch rope. The bumpiness of the braid, and the fact that she is lying on the waist rope, will hold it in place. You can pull on the end to tighten it up, and it will stay tight.....
Now, restrain your slave as desired....

BASICS OF BONDAGE



There is no one right way to tie someone up. Each person has their own idea and everyone has a different body type through trial and error you can come up with basic techniques but the best techniques depends on your preferences and capabilities. In the following transcript I will give you my ideas but in the end it is determined by you and your submissive to decide your own limits and as always the most important ingredient is an open mind and safety. ....
TYING LIMBS TOGETHER....
*DIVIDED WRAP*....
1. Center the rope over two limbs and wrap both ends repeatedly around. Be careful not to wrap too tightly. Stop at the central point (between the two limbs) when you have just enough left to do one more circle.....
2. Twist rope once and wrap the rope in opposite directions between limbs making it secure but not too tight. (If the skin begins to change color, it's too tight)....
"Cross-wrapping is called the cinch"....
3. Leave enough rope to tie a normal, square knot.......
· By wrapping several times you distribute the pressure....
· By twisting you create an anchor spot to stop the rope pitching against one or the other limb....
· By wrapping between the limbs you secure the bond. ....
· Wrap loosely and cinch tightly and the bond will embrace each limb securely and provide a more pleasant sensation for the slave....
*DOUBLE WRAP*....
1. Fold (double) the rope at the center. The folded point is called the Lark's Head.....
2. Bring both ends through the Lark's Head, and wrap in reverse direction.....
3. Stop when you only have enough rope left for about one more wrap.....
4. Push both ends of rope through the Lark's Head.....
5. Separate the ends wrap them between the limbs leaving enough to tie a square knot. ....
Wrist Positions....
Wrists Palm to Palm....
The wrapping is horizontal, the cinch is vertical. As time passes, the sub can change arm positions to relieve muscle strain.....
Wrists Crossed....
This looks sexy. Since the elbows will bend outward and the arms should not be forced in by bondage.....
Japanese Wrists....
The elbows are bent at right angles and the forearms are parallel in the small of the back. The wrapping is vertical and the cinch (optional) is horizontal. ....
(position for people with broad shoulders)....
Hammer locked Wrists....
This is a strict variation on the basic Japanese position. The wrists are crossed upward, into the area between the shoulder blades. ....
(For slender, flexible people only)....
Ankle Positions....
Parallel Ankles....
Nice if you want the slave trying to roll around on their own.....
Easy Crossed Ankles....
This adds a feminine look to the legs.....
Strict Crossed Ankles....
Instead of the calves being almost parallel, they're roped so that the knees are forced apart. (Best for access, fun, and games)....
.. ..
Hobbles and Bar-Wraps....
.. ..
"Bar-Wrap" / Hobble....
A Hobble features less Wrap and more Cinch, with space between the two limbs.....
Elbow Bar-Wrap....
Though flexible slaves can touch their elbows together behind their back, for most people there needs to be space between the elbows. A hobble above the elbows will add security to arm bondage.....
Hobbled Ankles....
Not recommended when leading your slave around....
Hobbled Wrists....
If your slave lacks flexible, you might not be able to tie their wrists together. A hobble between the wrists is a workable solution.....